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Arabian Nights in Dubai

 

Dubai is one man's fantasy writ large, with its seven-star hotel, snowy ski slope and myriad shopping malls.

 

Dubai sets out to create a fantasy world, where you can become someone else for a while, be it a rock star or a supermodel, and it goes out of its way to treat every one of its six million visitors a year like that. Mind you, you only get this particular service if your're lucky enough to be staying at the famous seven-star Buri Al Arab Hotel - or at one of the country's other leading hotels - but it certainly makes arriving memorable, you might almost call it dreamlike.

That's not entirely a surprise. The country has long been dedicated to ensuring that everyone's wildest dreams can be fulfilled, it's exactly what's been happening in this tiny desert kingdom throughout the 1500 years of it's existence. In the sixth century, Dubai was the place in Arabia to trade, to make a fortune, and then relax. The world's tallest skyscraper, the Burj Dubai, is half finished, and should open next year, while the 130-arce Zabeel Park, complete with playgrounds, lagoons, cinemas and an amphitheatre, opens soon.

Dubai is a fantastic place to buy carpets, as traders from Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan converge in this shopping Mecca, selling their wares for anything from a few hundred to thousands of dirhams. Other traditional goods include: Arabic coffee pots, swords and khanjars (Arabic curved daggers), prayer beads, marble goblets, silver Bedouin jewellery, cotton dhurries (oblong floor coverings) and inlaid rosewood and walnut furniture.

The club scene is a curious one, with nightclubs often delineated along ethnic and national lines. Increasingly, big name DJs are being attracted to Dubai, as a Western-style clubbing scene starts to develop. By law, clubs must close at 0300. Many clubs are over-25 only. Dress codes for bars are generally relaxed, although some bars and all clubs insist on no jeans, trainers or sandals. A more mellow night out can be had at one of Dubai’s coffee houses, where you can smoke apple-flavoured tobacco from a shisha pipe.

The Hotel: Itself seemingly is shaped like the sail of a dhow, the Buri Al Arab on Beach Road is probably the most distinctive modern hotel in the world. It opened in 1999 and is the icon of modern Dubai. Taller than the Effel Tower, at more than 1,000ft and only 200ft shorter than the Empire State Building, it has of course its own helicopter pad at the top.

Rooms: Each room at the Burj is a suite spread over two floors, and there are 202 in all, including the two Royal suites on the 25th floor, which boast their own private lifts, cinema, rotating beds a majlis - an Arab meeting room - as well as dressing rooms larger than the average hotel room. When you arrive the first person you meet is your personal butler.

 

Out and about in Dubai

Fellow Guests: The Burj had to overcome its own fame. People thought that it was so exclusive when it opened that only the immensley rich could afford to come, one insider informed Seek4travel. Now the clientele is a cross- section of travellers from around the world, from Saudi princes to London businessmen.

Tariff: Naturally enough, the Burj isn't cheap. A double room costs £975 per night, based on two people sharing although you could fit many more into a big suite - including local taxes and breakfast..

The truth is that Dubai is very impressive indeed, as 600,000 Britons, many of them from London, realised when they went their last year. Walking into the Burj can only be described as being unforgettable. The attrium stretches for miles above your head, the sunlight is shaded by what must be the biggest blinds in the world. There's certainly nothing as mundane as a reception..

Other Hotels: The Burj isn't the only place to stay in Dubai. There are several others in the same chain, including the newly opened Madinat Jumeriah located almost next door to the Burj Al Arab. The Madinat Jumeirah boast its own canals and little rivers boats to transport you, not to mention a concert hall and its own private souk. Decorated in traditional Arabian style, it has a more laid-back look than it's sister hotel, and feels more like a place where you would take a family. Prices start from £420 per room per night. If you want the city itself, or you're doing business, it is certainly one of the best places to stay.

Emirates Towers on Sheikh Zayed Road. Geared principally for businessmen, it nevertheless boasts its own lage pool and spa, as well as a complimentary shuttle to the Jumeriah Beach Club. From £300 per night per room. It also has our vote home to the hippest bar in Dubai - the Cigar Lounge on the tenth floor. For details of all the hotels mentioned contact the Jumeirah group (0800 082 8000; www.jumeirah.com).

The United Arab Emirates is determined to belong to the modern world. This 1,500sq-mile country at the toe of the Arabian Gulf is sanitised, internationalised Arabia...

Getting there: Expedia.co.uk offers great flight deals from Heathrow to Dubai; general flights take around six and a half hours. You can book online here Public transport isn't highly developed in Dubai just yet, so the best way into the city, if you're not getting on of the complimentary hotel limos or shuttle buses, is by taxi. The 15-minute journey to the city centre from the airport will cost around £5.30, while getting back will only cost around £2.10. To get to the beach resorts take about 30minutes and cost around £6.80.


Perhaps less exotic, but equally tantalising, is Dubai International Airport, offering a 24-hour paradise of duty-free goods. It's hardly surprising that this leading institution - probably the best duty-free outlet in the world - heads the annual Dubai Shopping Festival.

What to do: Dubai isn't all about getting a tan or shopping. You can visit the great Jumeirah Mosque or take a trip on the Dubai Creek - it may be called a creek but it's wider than the Thames at Westminister Bridge - which offers you the chance to try one of the famous water taxis, the abra. ply their trade across the Creek day and night and are part of the city's commuter network - just as the Vaporetti are in Venice - but you can also hire one of your own if you set a price with the captain before you start at one of the clearly marked boarding signs. It shouldn't cost you much more than £10.

Gold Souk: Which is much as it was centuries ago, and where the haggling hasn't changed either. Try Aries Trading, opposite the main entranc, or AST next door for bargains in silver rather than gold.

Where to Eat and Drink: Find your way to Gordon Ramsey's restaurant Verre in the Hilton on Dubai Creek, currently the sleekest of Dubai's many excellent restaurants but not cheap at an average of £85 a head. If you fancy a drink back at the beach, the hottest place is the rooftop bar at the One&Only Royal Mirage on Al Sufouh Road, with superb views of the Gulf. Or ofif you happen to be in town try the Noodle House in the Emirates Towers where the Sheikh Mohammed likes to eat; or the Agency wine bar next door, where you can have chilli prawns and a bottle of Sauvignon and almost fool yourself into thinking that you were in New York.